BITS & PIECES . . .
. . . Bill Buys takes a light-hearted look at a sometimes crazy world of motoring and other forms of transport, nationally, internationally, and here in North East Victoria and the Southern Riverina
Words/photos: Bill Buys
BILL Buys, one of Australia's longest-serving motoring writers, has been at his craft for more than five decades. Although motoring has always been in his DNA, he was also night crime reporter, foreign page editor an later chief reporter of the Rand Daily Mail. He has been shot at twice, attacked by a rhinoceros, and had several chilling experiences in aircraft. His experience includes stints in traffic law enforcement, motor racing and rallying, and writing for a variety of local and international publications. He has covered countless events, ranging from world motor shows and Formula 1 Grands prix, to Targa tarmac and round-the-houses meetings. A motoring tragic, he has owned more than 90 cars. Somewhat of a nostalgic, he has a special interest in classic cars.
IT’S a long way from Sydney to Cape York.
However, these days adventurers planning to do that 3000km trip can choose from several routes, although the stretch from Townsville to the nation’s northernmost tip can be tough going, and a decent 4WD vehicle is recommended.
But back in the ‘roaring twenties’ not much was known of Australia’s northern parts other than the gold rush of the late 1870s which drew tens of thousands of miners.
But they all came (and soon went) by steamboat on the Palmer River. There were no roads.
That didn’t stop a couple of enterprising Kiwis, Hector McQuarrie and his mate, Dick Matthews.
They wanted to travel the world, starting with Malaya.
Their original thoughts were to go to Peru to find golden relics left by the ancient Incas, but a motorcycle journey from southern Italy to England, and taking in an audience with the Pope, had been equally attractive.
They were only dreams, since both were enduring a financial slump.
Then the trip to Malaya seemed more realistic.
To get there, they could go by steamship, then thought it would be much more interesting to drive up Australia’s eastern coast as far as Cape York, then go to Thursday Island and hop on a boat from there to Malaya.
They arrived in Sydney, and through contacts with a major car dealer, acquired an unlikely offroad contender - an Austin 7.
They left Sydney in August 1928, with supplies that included a tent, extra fuel, a typewriter, mosquito nets, and two books: the complete Shakespeare and Alice in Wonderland.
It was quite easy going along the east coast until they reached Townsville, then found the coastal road to Cairns was more of a track than a road.
And that beyond Cairns there were simply no roads further north.
They also learnt that no car had ever reached Cape York.
What followed was an incredible adventure, faithfully documented by Hector, who had struck a deal with a Sydney newspaper to supply reports of their progress.
Their trip took a little longer than expected, no thanks to hundreds of punctures (Dick said they averaged 26 a day), scores of river crossings – no bridges then – and they often had to dismantle their little car, carry the parts across wet or dry rivers, and reassemble it on the far side.
Everywhere they met people they were told it was impossible to drive to Cape York.
‘There are no roads, many rivers, no bridges, it simply cannot be done,’ was what they heard from everyone en route.
However, one man who had vast experience of the terrain conceded it might be possible – but reckoned it would take at least nine months to get there.
The lads in their baby Austin mainly followed the track of the telegraph line, which had a trio of men stationed at 70-mile (112km) intervals.
But the track was a naturally camouflaged minefield of tyre-spiking plants,
interspersed with hazardous hidden holes and many rivers, some mountain ranges and countless camping nightmares such as ants, scorpions, snakes, crocodiles and wild pigs, not to mention flies and varying degrees of heat, rain and/or cold.
They occasionally had the good fortune to reach a remote farmhouse where they were welcomed and given a few days of comparative luxury – and petrol – before setting off on their next few miles.
At times the riverbanks were so steep that they let the little Austin down by rope on one side and haul it up again on the far side. Slow, backbreaking work, but the lads persevered.
Some people they met had never seen a car before and horses bolted in terror at the sight and sound of the approaching minicar.
Among the toughest tasks were getting their car across the mighty 100m-wide Jardine River, which they achieved by floating, pulling and pushing it across with the aid of a small boat they found nearby.
They finally reached their destination – on October 31, 1928 – all of 16 weeks after leaving Sydney.
Their little Austin was the first car to do it. And it was still in excellent condition.
The tiny car made news across the nation and blazed a trail for future adventurers.
It’s still a tough trip to this day.
A current website says: There’s a reason they sell T-shirts reading ‘I did the Old Telegraph Track’ – it’s an achievement.
‘This is an extreme track and if you don’t know what I’m talking about it’s safe to say it’s not for you.’
The book Little Wheels, a record of their journey, is a great read, and the English of the time adds to the charm.
The few young women they met are referred to as ‘flappers’ and an Aboriginal tracker they briefly hired could not understand why they never swore.
The 176-page soft-cover costs $30 and is available in Australia from Woodslane distributors.